Hostname: page-component-8448b6f56d-sxzjt Total loading time: 0 Render date: 2024-04-18T04:41:22.864Z Has data issue: false hasContentIssue false

Stimulating Consumption: Yerba Mate Myths, Markets, and Meanings from Conquest to Present

Published online by Cambridge University Press:  24 December 2009

Christine Folch
Affiliation:
The Graduate Center, CUNY

Extract

Before Najla passes me the gourd brimming with yerba mate, she makes sure to wipe the end of the metal drinking straw with the fragrant leaves of a local herb—for the flavor and to clean it she explains in her Venezuela-accented Spanish. We sit under the welcome shade of a veranda, each taking our turn to drain the gourd and then returning it to Najla to fill once more with warm water from the teakettle. After splashing a pitcher of cold water on the concrete to cool it, her husband offers us a rare privilege: the liberty to ask any question we wish about the Druze religion. The Druze, an offshoot from eleventh-century Shi'a Islam, are endogamous and usually reveal the tenets of their faith only to those born within their community. Though we are speaking a mixture of English and Spanish, we are all guests at the Lebanese mountaintop home of Najla's deceased grandfather, an important Druze warlord during the civil war of the 1970s and 1980s. Najla and her husband are vacationing from their home in the Persian Gulf and staying with her unmarried female cousins, our hosts.

Type
Research Article
Copyright
Copyright © Society for the Comparative Study of Society and History 2010

Access options

Get access to the full version of this content by using one of the access options below. (Log in options will check for institutional or personal access. Content may require purchase if you do not have access.)

References

REFERENCES

Albes, Edward. 1916. Yerba Mate: The Tea of South America. Pan American Union. Washington, D.C.: Government Printing Office.Google Scholar
Allen, Catherine J. 1981. To Be Quechua: The Symbolism of Coca Chewing in Highland Peru. American Ethnologist 8, 1: 157–71.Google Scholar
Archivo Nacional, Asunción, Paraguay. 1659. Libro de caja de la Real Hacienda, vol. 22, no, 1.Google Scholar
Archivo Nacional, Asunción, Paraguay. 1682. Derechos de la yerba con las observaciones de los Padres Predicadores, vol. 45, doc. 7.Google Scholar
Archivo Nacional, Asunción, Paraguay. 1865. Articulo de la Prensa de Viena relativo al Paraguay (en traducción castellana) acerca de la yerba, vol. 345, doc. 16. [Note the archivist's error: this is not in Spanish, but rather French.]Google Scholar
Bauer, Arnold J. 2001. Goods, Power, History: Latin America's Material Culture. Cambridge: Cambridge University Press.Google Scholar
Blay Pigrau, Andres. 1918. La Yerba-Mate. Asunción: Talleres Gráficos del Estado.Google Scholar
Blinn Reber, Vera. 1985. Commerce and Industry in Nineteenth-Century Paraguay: The Example of Yerba Mate. The Americas 42, 1: 2953.Google Scholar
Bourdieu, Pierre. 1984. Distinction: A Social Critique of the Judgment of Taste. London: Routledge.Google Scholar
Carrón, Juan M., Monte de López Moreira, María G.Ayala, Anselmo, and Giménez, Salvadora. 2005. El Régimen Liberal 1870–1930: Sociedad, Economía y Cultura. Asunción: Arandurã Editorial.Google Scholar
Comisión Reguladora de la Producción y Comercio de la Yerba Mate. 1942. Boletín Informativo. Republica Argentina Ministerio de Agricultura de la Nación. (Julio-Setiembre), no. 14.Google Scholar
Coronil, Fernando. 1995. Transculturation and the Politics of Theory: Countering the Center/Cuban Counterpoint. An introduction to Fernando Ortiz's Cuban Counterpoint: Tobacco and Sugar. Durham: Duke University Press.Google Scholar
Courtwright, David T. 2001. Forces of Habit: Drugs and the Making of the Modern World. Cambridge, Mass.: Harvard University Press.Google Scholar
Daumas, Ernesto. 1930. El Problema de la Yerba Mate. Buenos Aires: Campañía Impresora Argentina.Google Scholar
Dickel, M. L., Rates, S. M., and Ritter, M. R.. 2007. Plants Popularly Used for Loosing [sic] Weight Purposes in Porto Alegre, South Brazil. Journal of Ethnopharmacology 109, 1: 6071.Google Scholar
Di Leonardo, Micaela. 1998. Exotics at Home. Chicago: University of Chicago Press.Google Scholar
Dobrizhoffer, Martin. 1822. An Account of the Abipones, An Equestrian People of Paraguay, in Three Volumes. Trans. from the 1784 Latin. Vol. 1. London: John Murray, Albermarle Street.Google Scholar
Dürrschmidt, Jörg. 1999. The ‘Local’ versus the ‘Global’?—‘Individualised Milieux’ in a Complex ‘Risk Society.’ The Case of Organic Food Box Schemes in the South West. In Hearn, Jeff and Roseneil, Sasha, eds., Consuming Cultures: Power and Resistance. New York: St. Martin's Press, 131–52.Google Scholar
Escobar, Ticio. 2007. The Curse of Nemur: In Search of the Art, Myth, and Ritual of the Ishir. Pittsburgh: University of Pittsburgh Press.CrossRefGoogle Scholar
Ewbank, Thomas. 1856. Life in Brazil; Or, A Journal of a Visit to the Land of the Cocoa and the Palm. New York: Harper and Brothers.Google Scholar
Ferreira do Amaral e Silva, Victor. 1902. La Yerba Mate: Su cultivo, cosecha i preparación. Valparaíso: n.p.Google Scholar
Furlong, Guillermo S. J. 1991. Jose Sanchez Labrador, S. J. y su “Yerba Mate” (1774). Buenos Aires: Distribuidora y Editora Teoría S.R.L., Abril.Google Scholar
Geare, Randolph I. 1905. About Yerba Maté. Tea and Coffee Trade Journal 9, 4: 187–89.Google Scholar
Girola, Carlos D. 1915. Cultivo de la Yerba Mate (Ilex Paraguariensis). Buenos Aires: Imprenta “Gadola.”Google Scholar
Goldenberg, David, Golz, Avishay, and Joachims, Henry Zvi. 2003. The Beverage Maté: A Risk Factor for Cancer of the Head and Neck. Head and Neck 25, 7: 595601.CrossRefGoogle Scholar
Goodman, Jordan. 1993. Tobacco in History: The Cultures of Dependence. London: Routledge.Google Scholar
Harvey, David. 1990. Condition of Postmodernity: An Enquiry into the Origins of Cultural Change. Cambridge, Mass.: Blackwell.Google Scholar
Hearn, Jeff and Roseneil, Sasha, eds. 1999. Consuming Cultures: Power and Resistance. New York: St. Martin's Press.Google Scholar
International Bureau of the American Republics. 1891. Handbook of the American Republics Bulletin. No 2. Washington, D.C.: Government Print Office.Google Scholar
International Bureau of the American Republics, Pan American Union. 1911. Transactions of the International Sanitary Conference of the American Republics. Santiago, Chile: International Bureau of the American Republics.Google Scholar
Jamieson, Ross W. 2001. The Essence of Commodification: Caffeine Dependencies in the Early Modern World. Journal of Social History 32, 2 (Winter): 269–86.Google Scholar
Jankowiak, William and Bradburd, Daniel, eds. 2003. Drugs, Labor, and Colonial Expansion. Tucson: University of Arizona Press.Google Scholar
Kamangar, Farin, Schantz, Michele M.Abnet, Christian C.Fagundes, Renato B., and Dawsey, Sanford M.. 2008. High Levels of Carcinogenic Polycyclic Aromatic Hydrocarbons in Mate Drinks. Cancer Epidemiology Biomarkers and Prevention 17: 1262–68.CrossRefGoogle ScholarPubMed
Katz, Cindi. 1998. Whose Nature, Whose Culture? Private Productions of Space and the Preservation of Nature. In Braun, B. and Castree, N., eds., Remaking Reality: Nature at the End of the Millennium. New York: Routledge, 4663.Google Scholar
Kipple, Kenneth. 2007. A Movable Feast. Cambridge: Cambridge University Press.Google Scholar
Le Maté ou Thé du Paraguay. 1914. “Ariel” Talleres Tipográficos y de Encuadernación. Asunción: Ministerio de Relaciones Exteriores. Sección Inmigración, Propaganda y Canje.Google Scholar
Levy, G. C. 1890. Handy Guide to the River Plate. 2d ed.London: Hutchinson & Co, J. S. Virtue and Co., Ltd.Google Scholar
López, Adalberto. 1974. The Economics of Yerba Mate in Seventeenth-Century South America. Agricultural History 48, 4: 493509.Google Scholar
López, Adalberto. 1976. The Revolt of the Comuneros, 1721–1735: A Study in the Colonial History of Paraguay. Cambridge, Mass.: Schenkman Publishing Company.Google Scholar
López-Alves, Fernando. 2000. The Transatlantic Bridge: Mirrors, Charles Tilly, and State Formation in the River Plate. In Centeno, Miguel Angel and Lopez-Alvez, Fernando, eds., The Other Mirror: Grand Theory through the Lens of Latin America. Princeton: Princeton University Press, 153–76.Google Scholar
Martins, Ramorio and De Abreu Filho, Alberto. 1916. O Livro do Mate. Sao Paulo e Rio: Weizflog Irmãos.Google Scholar
Matthee, Rudi. 1994. Coffee in Safavid Iran: Commerce and Consumption. Journal of the Economic and Social History of the Orient 37, 1: 132.CrossRefGoogle Scholar
Mintz, Sidney. 1985. Sweetness and Power: The Place of Sugar in Modern History. New York: Penguin Books.Google Scholar
Muello, Alberto Carlos. 1946. Yerba Mate: Su Cultivo y Explotación. Enciclopedia Agropecuaria Argentina 31. Buenos Aires: Editorial Sudamericana.Google Scholar
Orlove, Benjamin S. and Bauer, Arnold J.. 1997. Chile in the Belle Epoque: Primitive Producers, Civilized Consumers. InOrlove, Benjamin, ed., The Allure of the Foreign: Imported Foods in Post-Colonial Latin America. Ann Arbor: University of Michigan Press, 113–50.Google Scholar
Osseo-Asare, Abena Dove. 2008. Bioprospecting and Resistance: Transforming Poisoned Arrows into Strophanthin Pills in Colonial Gold Coast, 1885–1922. Social History of Medicine 21, 2: 269–90.CrossRefGoogle Scholar
Peralto, A. Jover. 1950. Cancionero del Mate. Buenos Aires: Editorial Tupã.Google Scholar
Pittler, M. H., Schmidt, K., and Ernst, E.. 2005. Adverse Events of Herbal Food Supplements for Body Weight Reduction: Systematic Review. Obesity Reviews 6, 2: 93111.Google Scholar
Raoul, Waldemar. 1946. A cera da erva-mate. Rio de Janiero: Instituto Nacional de Tecnologia.Google Scholar
Robertson, John Parish and Parish, William. 1839. Francia's Reign of Terror, Being the Continuation of Letters of Paraguay. Vol. 3. London: John Murray.Google Scholar
Rodríguez-Alegría, Enrique. 2005. Eating Like an Indian: Negotiating Social Relations in the Spanish Colonies. Current Anthropology 46, 4 (Aug.-Oct.): 551–73.Google Scholar
Roger, Leon. 1906. Informe sobre el cultivo de la yerba mate. Buenos Aires: Ministerio de Agricultura.Google Scholar
Romero, Genaro. 1915. El Porvenir de la Yerba Mate. Asunción: La Mundial, Montevideo y Estrella.Google Scholar
Roseberry, William. 1995. Introduction. In Roseberry, W.Gudmundson, Lowell, and Kutschbach, Mario Samper, eds., Coffee, Society, and Power in Latin America. Baltimore: Johns Hopkins University Press.Google Scholar
Roseberry, William. 2005 [1996]. The Rise of Yuppie Coffees and the Reimagination of Class in the United States. InWatson, James L. and Caldwell, Melissa L., eds., The Cultural Politics of Food: A Reader. Malden, Mass: Blackwell, 121–43.Google Scholar
Schivelbusch, Wolfgang. 1992. Tastes of Paradise: A Social History of Spices, Stimulants, and Intoxicants. New York: Vintage Books.Google Scholar
Shumway, Nicolas. 1991. The Invention of Argentina. Berkeley: University of California Press.Google Scholar
Smith, Edmond Reuel. 1855. The Araucanians: Or, Notes of a Tour among the Indian Tribes of Southern Chili. New York: Harper.Google Scholar
Smith, Woodruff D. 1992. Complications of the Commonplace: Tea, Sugar, and Imperialism. Journal of Interdisciplinary History 23, 2: 259–78.Google Scholar
The Tea and Coffee Trade Journal (New York). 1905. Vol. 8, 1 (Jan.).Google Scholar
Topik, Steven, Marichal, Carlos, and Frank, Zephyr, eds. 2006. From Silver to Cocaine: Latin American Commodity Chains and Building of the World Economy, 1500–2000. Durham: Duke University Press.Google Scholar
Varisco, Daniel Martin. 1986. On the Meaning of Chewing: The Significance of Qat (Catha edulis) in the Yemen Arab Republic. International Journal of Middle East Studies 18, 1: 113.CrossRefGoogle Scholar
Wagner, Mark. 2005. The Debate between Coffee and Qāt in Yemeni Literature. Middle Eastern Literatures 8, 2: 121–49.Google Scholar
Walsh, Joseph M. 1907. Tea and Its Substitutes. Tea and Coffee Trade Journal 7, 2: 746–48.Google Scholar
Weinberg, Bennett Alan and Bealer, Bonnie K.. 2002. The World of Caffeine: The Science and Culture of the World's Most Popular Drug. London: Routledge.Google Scholar
Whigham, Thomas. 1991. La Yerba Mate del Paraguay (1780–1870). Asunción: Centro Paraguay de Estudios Sociológicos.Google Scholar
White, Richard Alan. 1978. Paraguay's Autonomous Revolution 1810–1840. Albuquerque: University of New Mexico Press.Google Scholar