Surf and run-up on a beach: a uniform bore
A numerical solution is obtained to describe the behaviour of a uniform bore over a sloping beach and the subsequent run-up and back-wash. The results exhibit features which have only previously been described in a qualitative manner. These include the formation’ of a landward-facing bore in the back-wash. A comprehensive set of results are presented for a typical initial subcritical bore height ratio.(Published Online April 19 2006)
(Received October 5 1978)
p1 Present address: Department of Theoretical Mechanics, University of Nottingham.