Journal of Fluid Mechanics

The transformation of a solitary wave over an uneven bottom

O. S.  Madsen a1 and C. C.  Mei a1
a1 Hydrodynamics Laboratory, Department of Civil Engineering, Massachusetts Institute of Technology

Article author query
madsen os   [Google Scholar] 
mei cc   [Google Scholar] 


Based on a set of approximate equations for long waves over an uneven bottom, numerical results show that as a solitary wave climbs a slope the rate of amplitude increase depends on the initial amplitude as well as on the slope. Results are also obtained for a solitary wave progressing over a slope onto a shelf. On the shelf a disintegration of the initial wave into a train of solitary waves of decreasing amplitude is found. Experimental evidence is also presented.

(Published Online March 29 2006)
(Received April 7 1969)
(Revised June 30 1969)