Journal of Fluid Mechanics

On the excitation of edge waves on beaches

A. A.  Minzoni a1 and G. B.  Whitham a1
a1 Applied Mathematics, California Institute of Technology, Pasadena

Article author query
minzoni aa   [Google Scholar] 
whitham gb   [Google Scholar] 


The excitation of standing edge waves of frequency ½ω by a normally incident wave train of frequency ω has been discussed previously (Guza & Davis 1974; Guza & Inman 1975; Guza & Bowen 1976) on the basis of shallow-water theory. Here the problem is formulated in the full water-wave theory without making the shallow-water approximation and solved for beach angles β = π/2N, where N is an integer. The work confirms the shallow-water results in the limit N [dbl greater-than sign] 1, shows the effect of larger beach angles and allows a more complete discussion of some aspects of the problem.

(Published Online April 11 2006)
(Received July 26 1976)