Journal of Fluid Mechanics

Water waves of finite amplitude on a sloping beach

G. F.  Carrier a1 and H. P.  Greenspan a1
a1 Pierce Hall, Harvard University

Article author query
carrier gf   [Google Scholar] 
greenspan hp   [Google Scholar] 


In this paper, we investigate the behaviour of a wave as it climbs a sloping beach. Explicit solutions of the equations of the non-linear inviscid shallow-water theory are obtained for several physically interesting wave-forms. In particular it is shown that waves can climb a sloping beach without breaking. Formulae for the motions of the instantaneous shoreline as well as the time histories of specific wave-forms are presented.

(Published Online March 28 2006)
(Received November 26 1957)

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