Journal of Fluid Mechanics


Solitary wave runup and force on a vertical barrier

a1 School of Civil and Environmental Engineering, Cornell University, Ithaca, NY 14853, USA

Article author query
liu p   [Google Scholar] 
al-banaa k   [Google Scholar] 


In this paper we investigate the interaction between a solitary wave and a thin vertical barrier. A set of laboratory experiments was performed with different values of incident wave height to water depth ratio, $H/h$, and the draught of the barrier to water depth ratio, $D/h$. While wave gauges were used to measure the reflected and transmitted waves, pressure transducers were installed on both sides of the barrier, enabling the calculation of wave force. The particle image velocimetry (PIV) technique is also employed to measure the velocity field in the vicinity of the barrier. A numerical model, based on the Reynolds-averaged Navier–Stokes (RANS) equations and the $k \hbox{--} \epsilon$ turbulence closure model, was first checked with experimental data and then employed to obtain additional results for the range of parameters where the laboratory experiments were not performed. Using both experimental data and numerical results, formulae for the maximum runup height, and the maximum wave force are derived in terms of $H/h$ and $D/h$.

(Received October 16 2003)
(Revised February 9 2004)

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